Visitor traffic at the Première Classe complex of events in Paris rose 25 percent year-over-year this season, while Tranoï reported a 10 percent increase in footfall — hard numbers in a wholesale market buyers themselves describe as uncertain.

The gains point to a shift in how independent retailers are sourcing. Buyers at the Paris Fashion Week trade shows said they are deliberately hunting small maker brands with craftsmanship stories, in part to defend margins and point of difference against resale platforms.

"Vinted's a massive problem," said Angela Siemieniuk, owner of accessories boutique Hat Trick in Hereford, U.K. "You really need that point of difference. The consumer needs to be excited." She had already completed most of her buying in the U.K. and Italy, treating Paris as a top-up trip.

What drove the traffic gains?

Première Classe, held in the Tuileries Gardens, stacked its offer with cohosted events this season:

• Jill, a new event curated by Jean-Pierre Blanc, focused on collaborations, unique pieces and limited editions
• Shoppe Object Paris' debut Tuileries selection
• Le Rendez-Vous, the first edition of a showcase from Francéclat's Emergence program for emerging jewelry, watchmaking and tableware brands
• Run, a showroom operated by WSN in collaboration with ANDAM

Organizer WSN is simultaneously shrinking the core show. "Our aim is to be more selective with Première Classe; over the past two or three seasons, we have reduced the selection by around 100 brands, with a more curated offer to highlight a new vision of our industries," said WSN chief executive officer Frédéric Maus. He added that most events now include a cultural focus "because I believe that's what people need today to be inspired."

At Tranoï, buyers responded to a new guided layout with clearer section delineation, new spaces for Thai designers and young French creators, the ongoing Canex initiative for African labels, and a bigger accessories focus. The show also ran a fashion show featuring three Chinese labels: Warrior 1927, Jun by Yangjun and Raxxy.

"I see the growth in traffic as a strong signal given the market's uncertainty," said Tranoï fashion manager Emilie Talec. "The show has been really dynamic, with a strong desire to buy and discover new brands."

Why are buyers favoring small production runs?

Retailers framed smaller labels as a commercial hedge against both resale platforms and sameness on the shop floor. "We try to find small maker brands that sit alongside our offer," said Charlotte Hess, founder of knitwear label Isobel & Cleo and its Nantucket store The Atelier, citing Rabari bags at Première Classe and ready-to-wear from Ilk at Tranoï. "Customers are more invested in the story than ever before."

Stephanie Sipley, owner of SoleAmour, with three Massachusetts stores, said the variety of newer designers and the use of color and adornments gave shoppers "a reason to buy it. No one needs just another white shirt." She flagged openness to buying smaller designers in smaller quantities for customers seeking unique pieces.

What price points and production models stood out?

The emerging brands on show spanned wide price bands and production approaches — relevant data for buyers weighing margin and lead time:

• Rabari (bags, Première Classe): made-to-order designs taking 10 to 30 days, retailing from 500 to 3,000 euros
• Fish Club (ready-to-wear): repurposed Indian fabric offcuts, see-now-buy-now model, retail from 180 euros for T-shirts to 599 euros for jackets
• Guayaba Agria (ready-to-wear): slow fashion in natural and deadstock fabrics, wholesale 150 to 250 euros
• Natalie Grassi (jewelry): recycled silver and lab-grown stones, retail 120 to 350 euros, with a Ludwig Beck pop-up in Munich planned
• Batchig (fragrance): refillable solid perfumes made in France, launching at Printemps New York and Goop for holiday, retail $145 case and refill, $85 refill
• Moco (jewelry/watches): handmade finger watches in silver and 10-karat gold, wholesale 285 to 2,490 euros
• Chérietta.O (bags): stitch-free French construction with Italian-tanned French leather, retail 300 to 400 euros
• Elisa Parpinelli (jewelry/ceramics): hand-sculpted ceramic pieces, wholesale 300 to 1,000 euros

At Sphere, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode's emerging-designer showcase, Victoria Valette and Meruert Tolegen joined a roster including J. Simone, Matho, Riz Poli, Sevali, Vautrait and Weinsanto. At the Run showroom, newcomers included Argalji from Brazil and Ukrainian label Theo.

With both major Paris showcases posting traffic gains while cutting or curating their brand lists — and buyers explicitly tying purchase decisions to differentiation from secondhand supply — the trade fair channel is betting that tighter curation and smaller, story-driven labels will sustain wholesale volume into coming seasons.